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A bistro or bistrot (/ˈbiːstroʊ/), in its original Parisian form, is a small restaurant serving moderately priced, simple meals in a modest setting. In more recent years, the term has become used by restaurants considered, by some, to be pretentious.[1]
In a 2007 survey of national cuisines, a bistro is characterised as typically:
A Paris newspaper in 1892 referred to dishes served at a bistro, including escargots, veal with sauce ravigote, navarin of lamb, hachis Parmentier, eggs, sausages and hot roast chicken.[3]
The Oxford Companion to Food comments that the idea of simple inexpensive food served in a French atmosphere has wide appeal, so that by the end of the 20th century the term had "begun to be annexed by more pretentious premises".[4][n 1]
The etymology is unclear. The Dictionnaire de l'Académie française dates the word from the 19th century term, bistro, "innkeeper", and suggests that it may be linked to the Poitevin word bistraud ("little servant"), or to bistrouille ("cheap liquor"). It recommends the spelling "bistrot" in preference to "bistro".[6]
The word was used to describe a drinking establishment, estaminet or small popular local restaurant[6] where alcoholic beverages were served. This is also what Emile Zola called an "assommoir" in his famous novel, L'Assommoir.[7]
In the early part of the 19th century, the term "gargote" signified a basic style of restaurant,[n 2] but the term "bistro" or "bistrot" is not recorded until towards the end of the century. An early appearance of the term in print is in Les deux gosses by Pierre Decourcelle, published in 1880.[n 3]
A popular folk etymology, not attested by the Dictionnaire de l'Académie française, claims that the word originated among Russian troops who, following the Battle of Paris in March 1814, occupied the city and visited these tiny places to drink a coffee. They might have shouted bistro! bistro! (Russian: быстро, lit. 'quickly') when they wished to be served quickly. This etymology has been dismissed by linguists, because there is no attestation to the occurrence of the term until the late 19th century.[10]
The bistro became familiar in France throughout the 19th century. At this period, the Auvergnats (French people originating from the Auvergne region), often called the "bougnats",[11] transformed and developed the French bistro. Indeed, they started to offer meats with their choice of wines and spirits.[12]
In the 20th century, these places became very popular and widely represented the diversity of the Parisian life.[13] More than that, bistros became the hallmark of the French lifestyle and inspire a multitude of artists (photographs, writers, etc.).